I test drove the 2006 TL and like it much more than my 2001. I have been
reading other forums and found others have some of the same hopes that I do
for future models before we make the investment in a new car.

I thought the three things that would be required for me to replace my
current car are –
1. Better noise insulation (even the 2006 isn’t quiet enough – not talking
about handling or stiffness etc, the BMW has a fun tight ride but is much
quieter on the inside)
2. Better gas mileage – probably will have to wait for the 2009 hybrid TL
(fine with me then it will have the new lithium batteries for significantly
improved performance) – and yes I know there is no money to be saved
currently with hybrids)
3. Better voice activation for the NAVI – I can do a hell of a lot with
voice command on my phone – should be able to just say 2100 Wilshire Blvd,
Los Angeles, CA and it should pull up directions.

This is such a tiny thing but I would actually wait another year for just
this feature –  Not sure if it would be a deal breaker for me but I REALLY
want this feature
[url]http://www.autospies.com/article/index.asp?articleId=7827&categoryId=21[/ur-
 - l]

I would like the rear view camera – but it isn’t a deal breaker although I
would buy it as an option!

I would also like more REAR leg room. I’d give up trunk space as I have more
passengers than luggage.

I would love for the NAVI to pull contacts from my PDA phone so that I
wouldn’t have to reenter any info and then I could just say a contacts name
and it would pull up the address.

I was able to remove and re-flow the soldered pads on the Main Relay in
the subject auto.  In fact, I was able to remove it without need of
removing any trim panels.  (Side note here.  As Principal Skinner’s
mother Agnes commented about Seymour, "He has the tiny hands of a chimp".)

The operation was a success and the patient survived.  Now I will see if
the problem recurs…

As to soldering, just keep the iron tip clean by wiping with a moistened
cloth after each 4 or 5 pads.  I used a bit of 60-40 rosin-core solder
and melted against each pad to help conduct the heat and have a little
more solder to flow around the joint.

The mount point has a tab that helps to hold the relay on the bracket at
reinstall time.  It was a bit risky that if I dropped the bolt, the left
foot well side panel would have required removal.

So, thanks to TeGGeR@ and all the others who responded.

p00lb0y

I had noticed the plastic bits n’ pieces in the footwell and wondered where
they had come from. The part cost $3.84,and labor brought the job to a
total of $62.00. I had thought it was going to cost over $200 for a new
switch and labor,I was pleasently surprised at the lower charge.

[Thx,Courtesy Acura in Sanford.]

–
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

It’s got 135k on it maybe its carboned up and has higher compression now.
What do you think?

–
Ron

My 1994 Legend engine failed to turn over and start.  I suspected a dead
battery, but when the starter wouldn’t turn over with a jump start, I began
to suspect other things.  I went ahead and bought a new battery and all is
well again.  My question is:  why did the jump start fail to turn over the
engine?
Thanks

<prathibhprabaka…@comcast.net> wrote:
>  * Free listing with great features
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>  www.carbaazi.com

Do they have any cars at all?

To reach the wire I need to remove the liner on the inside of the trunk
lid.  Any ideas on how to do this without damaging it?

Thanks
Ed Tee